Day 15, Return To Banff

As I drove along through the mountains back to Calgary I came upon the idea of another trip to Banff. We hadn't seen Lake Louise or the other I remembered from way back, Moraine Lake. When I mentioned it to Sal she was all for it so I set out a plan, drive to Banff, then up the Bow Valley Parkway, across the Trans Canada to Lake Louise, up to Moraine and then back on the Trans Canada to the town of Banff for shopping and lunch. It would be a full day, and as it turned out one of the best of the trip.

As we approached Banff clouds started moving in so I decided to go straight up the Trans Canada (the quick way) to get to Lake Louise while the sun was still out. We arrived in the village at about 10:30, found Laggan's Mountain Bakery and Deli for a coffee and a fresh cinnamon bun. We called dad to wish him a happy birthday from a picnic table next to a rushing stream. Then we started up the 4 km to the lake. The parking lots were crowded and there were people all over. We got lucky in the upper parking lot and had a short walk to the lake. And there it was, even without full sunlight the colour of the water was that strange blue-green. Mountains dropping straight out of the clouds all the way to the edge of the water. And people. From every corner of the planet there were people milling along the shore of the famous lake making a picture without a head or two nearly impossible.

We walked along the shore with the rest of the crowd trying to get a few clear shots and a few with us in them. Even a tripod didn't clue some in. We wandered through the expensive shops of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and then back out before returning to the parking lot.

Our next stop was Moraine Lake, an 11km climb at an average 7.5% grade that reminded me that the Tour de France was on and this would be just an average climb for the riders. We rose steadily and could catch glimpses of the Bow Valley and then as we came around a corner we entered the Valley of Ten Peaks (check an old 20 dollar bill for another look). The ten mountains that surround Moraine Lake are all over 10,000 feet high. The parking lot was a simple loop that was jammed with a capital J. One frustrated motorhome owner had left his parked taking up 50% of the lane of the narrow highway. I dropped Sal off at the top of the lot expecting a long walk from a spot but again got lucky. I came past the end of the 'buses only' spots and got one just a hundred yards from where I had left Sal.

The turquoise colour of Moraine Lake is something that has been stuck in my mind for the last 40 years and I know now that my memory is not totally gone. It was simply breathtaking. What I didn't remember was the surrounding peaks. I felt so small standing there. They just fill the sky. We walked around a bit and were happy that despite the condition of the parking lot there were far fewer people here.

As much as we wanted to stay we had more to see in this last day in Banff. We drove back down and into the village and were greeted by a traffic jam that would have New Yorkers looking for new 4 letter words. Luck was with us again as I got through a 4 way stop and to the outside lane that crossed the Trans Canada and over to the Bow Valley Parkway. Traffic was backed up from the 4 way stop, across the highway, down the ramp and onto the highway as far as I could see to both the north and south. The 58km Bow Valley Parkway which is advertised as the 'slow and scenic route' was the fast way to travel today between the town of Banff and the village of Lake Louise. It slowly parallels the Trans Canada on the other side of the Bow River. There are dozens of spots with historic information, picnic tables, viewpoints, and campgrounds along with simple pull offs that must be designed for viewing the wildlife. The parkway is actually restricted during early morning and evening travel in the spring and fall to avoid collisions. We stopped often for pictures and as we were just about back to the intersection with the Trans Canada we were on a divided section. I came around the last corner before the road joined up with the opposing lane and on the side of the road just over a concrete barrier were 2 bighorn sheep. I snapped a few shots and then pulled up so I was past the corner. Both of the sheep trotted along the barrier and then crossed the road right behind the Impreza while I climbed out and snapped a handful of pictures. We had finally bagged our trophy, a scraggily looking pair but they completed a perfect day.

We went back into the town of Banff, got another gem of a parking spot and had lunch at the Magpie and Stump which surprised us as it was a Mexican restaurant. We shopped for an hour or so and then reluctantly made our way back to Calgary. Another round of Dominoes followed and my luck ended when I passed out of the park boundaries I guess as I struggled all night.

What a day. Memories tend to build experiences up over the years and when you finally get back, reality can't live up to the memory. Not this time, if anything it was more amazing. I didn't appreciate things then. Now the memory is clearer and I won't wait decades to go back. Parks Canada has done a tremendous job keeping the park in excellent condition for 125 years. Despite the multitude of souvenir shops in the town, it just doesn't feel like the tourist trap that a place like Niagara has become. The beauty of the park is the focus and not the dollars that could be drained from the visitors. The whole day cost us gas, lunch and a $20 entry to the park. Considering that it costs $11 to park at Kakabeka Falls for even 5 minutes this has to be one of the greatest travel bargains.